After countless scenic stops in Mani, we arrived at the enchanting Monemvasia on the evening of August 15th, a national holiday in Greece. Known as the “Gibraltar of the East,” Monemvasia is a breathtaking fortified town carved into a massive rock island, connected to the mainland by a single causeway.
The medieval charm of this historical gem is preserved in its winding cobblestone streets, ancient walls, and Byzantine churches, making it feel like a step back in time. Cars are not permitted within the old town, so we left our luggage by the main gate and prepared for an uphill trek to our accommodation.
A Stay at Izambo
Home during our stay was Izambo, a charming guesthouse perched near the top of the mountain. Adorned with traditional decor, it offered an authentic and cozy ambiance. Getting there wasn’t easy—hauling our luggage up the cobblestone streets and stairs proved challenging. But the effort was worth it. From our room, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and the ancient town below. The climb, with a few breath-catching pauses, took about ten minutes, and the scenery more than compensated for the effort.
A Culinary Welcome
For dinner, we lucked out with a table at Kanoni, a traditional restaurant known for its local flavors and stunning rooftop views. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the warm glow illuminated the old architecture, enhancing the golden tones of the stones. The gentle August breeze created the perfect setting for our first night in Monemvasia.
The menu was a delightful mix of local and modern Greek cuisine. We began with a Fagopyro quinoa salad featuring brunoise vegetables, orange, seeds, pickled fennel, valerian greens, and a poppy seed vinaigrette. For appetizers, we enjoyed trahana croquettes with goat cheese, and the Laconian saiti, a savory pie with mountain greens baked in a traditional mantemi, accompanied by yogurt sauce.
For mains, the Magiatiko fish with kakavia sauce infused with saffron and the octopus with citrus-flavored ginger sauce stole the show. The latter, served cold with wakame greens, was an unexpected yet delightful twist. Our dining experience was made even more memorable by a curious, puma-like black cat who charmed us into sharing some of our fish dishes.
After dinner, we took a leisurely evening stroll through the softly lit streets of Monemvasia, eventually arriving at a large open plaza. Here, the grandeur of the illuminated fortress walls stood in stark contrast to the vast, dark sky above, creating a mesmerizing scene. The stillness of the night was punctuated only by the gentle hum of the Aegean breeze, and the stars twinkled brightly in the absence of urban light pollution.
As we gazed upward, we were treated to an unexpected and extraordinary sight. Thanks to the time difference between Greece and Florida, we were lucky to witness a unique celestial event: the trail of a Falcon 9 rocket soaring through the night sky. Launched on the morning of August 15 at 9:00 a.m. ET from Cape Canaveral Space Force Station, the Falcon 9 carried the Maxar 2 mission to low-Earth orbit. Seeing this luminous streak cut across the heavens above Monemvasia was a surreal and serendipitous moment, reminding us of humanity’s incredible capacity for exploration—whether it be through the stars or the storied streets of a medieval town.
Strolling the Old Town
The next morning, we allowed ourselves the luxury of sleeping in before setting out to leisurely explore Monemvasia’s enchanting old town. The maze of narrow, winding alleys is a treasure trove of discovery, lined with traditional stone houses that exude timeless charm, boutique shops brimming with local crafts and goods, and hidden courtyards where history seems to linger in the air.
As we wandered, our path led us to the former home of Yiannis Ritsos, one of Greece’s most celebrated poets. Ritsos, born in Monemvasia, often drew inspiration from the island’s rugged beauty and cultural heritage, infusing his works with the essence of the place. His house, now repurposed as a guesthouse, stands as a testament to his legacy. Perched against the imposing Monemvasia walls, it offers breathtaking views of the endless blue expanse of the Aegean Sea. Standing there, it was easy to imagine how such a setting could inspire the profound depth and lyricism of Ritsos’s poetry.
For breakfast, we stopped at Enetiko, a café with views of the red-tiled rooftops and the endless blue of the Aegean. We sipped on freddo espresso and indulged in avocado toast with pine nuts, followed by a sweet treat: traditional ekmek kataifi.
Our wanderings led us to the Malva Gallery, home to the works of local artist Manolis Gregoreas. Known for his micrographic technique, his paintings are intricate masterpieces requiring months of meticulous effort. Among the highlights were “Orange Tree in December” and “Penelope”, which incorporated cryptographic inscriptions inspired by ancient Greek psifarithmisi (ψηφαρίθμηση). We left with fine prints of these captivating works—a splurge, but one we knew would beautifully adorn our home.
A Detour to Elafonisos
In no rush, we made our way to Elafonisos, a small island renowned for its stunning beaches. The port in Pounta is about a 30-minute drive from Monemvasia, and ferries run every half hour. Tickets were easy to purchase on-site: €16 for our car and two adults. The ferry ride itself lasted just 15 minutes.
Once on the island, we headed straight to the famed Simos Beach. The smaller of the two adjacent beaches, Simos offered turquoise waters, soft golden sands, and a serene atmosphere. For €30, we rented an umbrella and two sunbeds, and with two coffees and a large bottle of water for €10, we settled in for a blissful evening.
Ferry schedules can vary, especially during peak season in mid-August. Although the last ferry from Elafonisos to Pounta was scheduled for 8:30 pm, demand outstripped capacity. Additional ferries were deployed, but delays are common, so it’s wise to plan accordingly.
A Late-Night Feast
Due to the unexpected delay of having to wait for additional ferries to reach the island, we returned to Monemvasia from Elafonisos late in the evening. Fortunately, we managed to snag a table at Matoula Restaurant, a highly popular spot known for its authentic flavors and cozy atmosphere. Usually accompanied by long lines, dining here felt like a small victory at the end of a long day.
The meal was well worth the wait. We started with creamy fava, perfectly seasoned and drizzled with olive oil, followed by tender dolmadakia – stuffed vine leaves – that melted in our mouths. The refreshing dakos, a traditional Cretan dish of barley rusks topped with tomatoes, feta, and olive oil, brought a burst of Mediterranean flavor. For the main course, we enjoyed kalamari psito – grilled calamari – delicately charred and irresistibly fresh. As we savored each dish, the serene ambiance of the restaurant and the quiet buzz of Monemvasia at night made for a perfect end to a day full of adventure and discovery. To our surprise, the puma-like black cat we’d encountered the night before seemed to have found us again, weaving between the tables with a knowing air, as if expecting another share of our meal.
A Serene Farewell Before Sailing to Kythira
The following morning, we woke at sunrise to catch the boat to Kythira, and Monemvasia greeted us with a serenity that felt almost otherworldly. The medieval town, usually alive with visitors, was cloaked in a peaceful hush, broken only by the faint whispers of the sea. The soft light of dawn painted the ancient stone walls in hues of gold and blush, while the Aegean reflected pastel shades of pink and lavender. The air was cool and crisp, and as we walked through the cobblestone streets, it felt as though we had the town to ourselves. It was a magical moment—a fleeting glimpse of Monemvasia at its most tranquil, as if the town itself was still dreaming.
