Our journey through Mani started in the charming village of Kitta, where we stayed at the enchanting Citta dei Nicliani. This hotel, located in a protected zone, has been meticulously maintained to preserve its original architecture, reflecting the historical essence of the region. Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed with iced tea as our host shared insights on sightseeing, the best beaches, and dining options.
The wooden staircase leading to our room was a unique feature, requiring a specific step sequence to climb, designed to save space. We arrived in our room just in time to witness a breathtaking sunset from our private balcony, setting the perfect tone for our stay.
Nightlife in Gerolimenas and Alika
After refreshing ourselves with a quick shower, we headed towards Gerolimenas to explore the local nightlife. Our visit coincided with the lively “panigyri” of Alika, a traditional festival with music and merchandise stalls. The absence of light pollution in these villages offered us an unparalleled view of the starry night sky.
At around 10 p.m., we arrived at Matapan, a wine bar recommended by our hotel hostess. The name of the bar was inspired by Cape Matapan (also known as Kaap Taenarum), which was home to Mediterranean pirates for centuries. The bar, surrounded by canyon-like stones, had a higher level for performances and minimal lighting, allowing us to appreciate the stars. We enjoyed a sumptuous meal featuring octopus with arugula salad, lobster seaweed tartar, and tartufo tagliatelle, paired with Philosofia Locovino 2022 white wine. Dessert was a delectable Chocolate Namelaka with salt from Mani.
Exploring the Cave of Diros
The next morning, we drove 15 minutes to the magnificent Cave of Diros. For €15 per person, we embarked on a boat tour through this labyrinthine cave, passing through chambers with evocative names like the Chamber of Dreams and the Red Chamber. Discovered in the 1940s by Yiannis and Anna Petrocheilos, the cave is rich in history, with archaeological finds indicating human and animal habitation dating back to the Neolithic era.
Brunch in Limeni
Our next stop was Limeni, arguably the most beautiful spot in Mani. We enjoyed brunch at Teloneio All Day Bar, savoring pancakes with salmon and cream cheese, and Greek yogurt with granola and fresh fruits. The view was stunning, with tourists swimming alongside sea turtles in the crystal-clear waters.
Discovering Kardamyli and Agios Nikolaos
We spent the day to exploring nearby villages, starting with Kardamyli, a scenic one-hour drive from Limeni. This picturesque town offered charming shops and cafes, including the delightful Café Garden and the store Elia with olive-based products. We then stopped at Agios Nikolaos, a quaint fishing village with an island vibe, named after Saint Nikolaos, the protector of sailors.
A Serene Evening in Thalames and Oitilo
On our way back to Kitta, we visited Thalames, a 15-minute drive from Agios Nikolaos, and then stopped by Oitilo, a quiet village ideal for a peaceful stroll. We returned to our hotel around 6 pm, enjoying some time by the pool before heading out.
We headed to Kourmas restaurant in Limeni for dinner, where we feasted on stuffed calamari and grilled octopus. Before returning to the hotel, we made a quick stop in Areopoli for a stroll. The town named after Ares, the ancient Greek god of war, had a vibrant energy, bustling with tourists and offering a livelier nightlife compared to the quieter towns we had visited earlier. We roamed around, exploring the local shops and picking up a few treats, including honey infused with sage from Mani, hydromel, and Glyko tou Koutaliou, a traditional Greek dessert made of fruit preserves served with a spoon—often made with various fruits, including tomato-based varieties.
I usually skip breakfast, but this time I couldn’t resist our hotel’s delicacies. Eggs cooked according to one’s preference accompanied with sygklino (i.e. boiled pork), homemade marmalade, Greek yoghurt with honey and nuts, and fresh seasonal fruits (peaches and melon). As we relaxed over our meal, it felt as though time had slowed, allowing us to fully enjoy the moment. We reluctantly made our way back to our room to get ready for check-out.
Exploring Vathia
Around noon, we made our way to Vathia, an abandoned city that felt like stepping into the past. Its ruins, eerily reminiscent of Qeparo in Albania, painted a haunting yet fascinating picture of a once-thriving settlement now left to time. The place felt like a ghost town, with the only sounds being the wind and our footsteps. From there, the view of the sea and Kapoi Beach was absolutely breathtaking, stretching out in a brilliant blue contrast to the rugged landscape.
After exploring the old city, we headed to Aspalathos Cafe Bar Restaurant for a coffee, where we could sit back and take in the stunning surroundings. The peaceful atmosphere and panoramic views made it the perfect spot to relax.
Porto Kagio
Later, we continued our journey toward Porto Kagio. On our way there, we made a detour to Marmari Beach, a well-organized spot with sunbeds and facilities. While the main beach was pleasant, we found ourselves drawn to a smaller, more hidden beach just behind it. This quiet cove was far less developed, offering calm waters with fewer waves and the most stunning shades of turquoise and emerald. It was like a secret gem, its natural beauty far outshining the more touristy areas.
We had been advised to skip the southern part of the coast, which is best explored by boat. Among the highlights of this area is the Hades Gated, a unique and mythologically significant site. In Greek mythology, the “Hades Gate” is often associated with the underworld, believed to be an entrance to the realm of the dead.
After a few more short stops, we reached Porto Kagio, about 15 minutes away. The view of the water as we approached, especially from the hill before descending into the town, was nothing short of breathtaking. The colors of the sea—deep blues and vibrant greens—were so vivid they almost seemed surreal. Porto Kagio itself had a nostalgic charm, often described to us as being “stuck in the ‘80s,” with its simple, timeless beauty that seemed untouched by the modern world.
As we wandered the area, we couldn’t help but notice the secluded beaches nearby, their appeal drawing in more boats and offering an even more private escape. The peaceful, unspoiled surroundings made them irresistible, adding to the allure of Porto Kagio as a hidden haven.
The Charm of Alipa
Our next planned stop was Alipa, but we first encountered the cozy village of Lagia and the abandoned village of Spira. Both offered stunning sea views and a sense of timelessness. On our way, we passed through Kokkala, a place renowned for its emerald-green beaches and rich historical significance, its name derived from the human bones discovered there, remnants of an ancient battle. Upon arriving at Alipa, a charming beach adorned with large white pebbles and home to a quaint seaside tavern, we were greeted by rising winds and a lack of parking. After a brief stop to take in the scenery, we continued our journey to Monemvasia.
Road Trips to Sapientza and Voidokoilia
For those looking to extend their adventure, consider visiting Sapientza, a tiny island resembling the Caribbean. It is accessible by boat, Balkan Cruise, departing hourly from Methoni, which costs €15 per person aller-retour.
Another remarkable destination is Voidokoilia, celebrated for its historical significance and breathtaking panoramic views from the castle atop its hill. Widely regarded as one of the most iconic beaches in Messenia and among the most exquisite in all of Greece, it truly lives up to its reputation. Feeling too relaxed to tackle the climb to the castle, we opted instead to inaugurate our new drone, capturing its stunning vistas from above.
Concluding Our Journey
Our journey through Mani was a blend of historical exploration, natural beauty, and culinary delights. From the picturesque village of Kitta to the starry nights of Alika, the mysterious caves of Diros, and the serene beaches of Limeni, every moment was a treasure. As we reluctantly checked out from our hotel, we carried with us memories of a timeless region, rich in history and unparalleled in its charm.