Is London Baby-Friendly? Our Honest Experience
London is an iconic travel destination brimming with history, culture, and world-class attractions. But is it baby-friendly? Our first international trip as a family with our (almost) 4-month-old baby gave us a reality check.
London is not the easiest place to navigate with a baby. Many rather central Tube stations lack lifts, making it a challenge for people with a stroller, while a surprising number of restaurants and cafés don’t have changing stations for babies. Locals told us this is largely due to the city’s old infrastructure—some of it predating the United States! That said, London has its charms, and with the right planning, you can still enjoy the city with your little one in tow.
This was our third time in London but our first time with a baby, so we skipped some of the major tourist attractions we had explored in the past. Here’s a breakdown of our trip, including must-visit spots, food highlights, and logistical challenges to prepare for.
Mayfair, Shopping & Sweet Indulgence
Hedonism Wines
Our London adventure began in Mayfair, where we made our first stop at Hedonism Wines—a paradise for wine lovers. With an extensive selection of fine wines and even a small play area for children, it was the perfect place to unwind after an 8h-long flight from Toronto. We indulged in tastings of Karamolegos Santorini 2022, Château d’Yquem 1996, and Blandy’s Bual 2008 Madeira before picking up a few bottles to bring home.
Soho
From there, we took a leisurely stroll along Bond Street and Regent Street, soaking in the luxurious atmosphere. While London is dazzling during the holiday season, the city still carried an air of sophistication beyond the Christmas lights. A quick detour through Carnaby Street added a splash of vibrant energy to our walk.
L’ETO Patisserie
To end the evening on a sweet note, we stopped at L’ETO, a patisserie known for its decadent treats. We tried the pistachio & rose petal cake, the raspberry tart, the saffron dulce de leche, and the chocolate fudge cake—each bite more indulgent than the last.
Throughout an evening of strolling through London’s charming streets, indulging in wine tastings and desserts, our little one either snoozed peacefully or curiously took in the city’s sights from the comfort of his Bugaboo Butterfly travel stroller—his first time riding in it! Though we’d heard that this stroller isn’t typically recommended for babies under six months due to its non-fully-reclining seat, a pediatrician we saw in Greece after our London trip reassured us that the 45-degree angle is actually ideal for this age. He even mentioned that a full 90-degree position is more appropriate once babies reach six months. That said, bundled up in his 7AM Enfant Footmuff, our baby was cozy and content in his stroller, happily drifting between naps and wide-eyed wonder as we kept exploring the City.
Brunch in Marylebone, Specialty Coffee & Indian Comfort Food
Home in Marylebone
On our second day, we kicked things off with a leisurely brunch at Home in Marylebone, a cozy spot with a laid-back vibe and flavourful menu. We sampled a refreshing tuna salad, crispy Korean chicken, and comforting penne pasta—each dish surprisingly distinct and satisfying. To elevate the experience, we paired our meal with a lavender martini, a pineapple margarita, and a glass of sweet sparkling wine—an unexpected but delightful trio that set the tone for a relaxed day ahead. With the baby happily people-watching from his stroller (or napping, as usual), it was the kind of family-friendly outing that let us enjoy good food and grown-up moments without any stress.
Specialty Coffee at Shot
For specialty coffee, we made a stop at Shot, a minimalist haven for serious coffee lovers. We sampled three standout single-origin pours: the Colombia Granja La Esperanza, bursting with notes of pomegranate, papaya, caramel, and lychee; the Yemen Marari, rich with dried fruit and berry flavors; and the Panama Summer Honey Geisha, a delicate brew with floral, stone fruit, and jasmine undertones that lingered beautifully. It was a treat for the senses—though definitely more of a grown-up indulgence than a family stop. Sadly, Shot didn’t have a baby-changing station, which made things a bit tricky—but if you’re navigating London with a little one, it’s still worth a quick visit as long as you plan accordingly!
Dishoom Covent Garden
A stop at Selfridges’ iconic fragrance hall was a must before heading to Dishoom Covent Garden for dinner—though with our little one, we made it a brief visit, as the air was thick with scent and a bit overwhelming for little lungs. Despite not having a reservation at Dishoom, we only had to wait for 15 minutes to grab a table—a lucky break! The food was a highlight, featuring okra fries, gunpowder potatoes, garlic naan, awadhi jackfruit biryani, chicken Rubi, Goan monkfish curry, aubergine chutney, and refreshing lassis and house tea. Plus, every meal helps feed the hungry in India. Before ending the evening, we picked up cheesecake, tiramisu, and vanilla buns from Buns From Home—still delicious and fresh the next morning.
South Kensington Museums & A Historic Wine Bar
Natural History Museum
We began the following day with a baby-friendly cultural escape to South Kensington, the beating heart of London’s museum scene. Our first stop: the awe-inspiring Natural History Museum. Stepping into its iconic Hintze Hall felt like entering a cathedral of science and wonder. At the center of it all, suspended from the ceiling in breathtaking fashion, was Hope—a 25.2-metre-long blue whale skeleton. As the largest creature ever to have lived, she commands the space with quiet majesty, offering visitors the chance to walk beneath her sweeping frame and reflect on the beauty and fragility of our natural world.
Named Hope to symbolize humanity’s capacity to protect the planet, the whale represents a turning point in conservation: once hunted to the brink of extinction, blue whales became one of the first species that people rallied to save on a global scale. This powerful story made our visit feel even more meaningful. As we strolled through the museum’s vibrant exhibits—dinosaurs roaring to life, shimmering gemstones, and curious creatures from every era—our baby was wide-eyed with fascination, especially drawn to the movement and colour all around him.
Victoria and Albert Museum
However, the real gem of the day—my personal favourite—was the Victoria and Albert Museum. The Medieval and Renaissance collections swept us into a world of ornate beauty and craftsmanship, with centuries of history woven into every sculpture, tapestry, and pane of stained glass. The museum’s wide, stroller-friendly galleries gave us the freedom to explore without rush, and we loved the quiet rhythm of appreciating each masterpiece while our baby soaked in the gentle buzz of culture all around him.
A not-to-be-missed spot within the museum is the café, which holds the distinction of being the world’s first museum café, a vision attributed to the founding Director, Henry Cole. The café is nestled in what were originally the museum’s three grand refreshment rooms—the Gamble, Poynter, and Morris Rooms—opened in 1868, though the decorative work continued for many years. The Gamble Room, initially known as the Centre Refreshment Room, was designed to captivate visitors right at the museum’s main entrance. It’s a feast for the eyes, wrapped in a dazzling display of colourful ceramic, glass, and enamel. The room’s design was initially planned by the talented Godfrey Sykes, but after his untimely death, James Gamble took over, creating a stunning space with vibrant majolica tiles and intricate carvings of elephants, camels, and cherubs. The opulent materials used in the room’s construction not only dazzled but also served a practical purpose, making the room easy to maintain and fire-resistant.
The Poynter Room, with its Eastern influences and luxurious floral and peacock motifs, evokes the Aesthetic Movement, while the Morris Room, designed by relatively unknown at the time William Morris, brings together a rich eclecticism that would define the era. With painted tiles depicting the months, seasons, and zodiac signs, this room is a blend of Victorian style and classical references. Today, the museum café preserves this sense of history and design, offering a peaceful retreat where families can relax and refuel amidst the museum’s breathtaking collections. Whether you’re in need of a coffee or a light snack, it’s the perfect place to pause, unwind, and reflect on the beauty of the past and present.
EL&N
After leaving the museum, we decided to take a quick break at EL&N for coffee and dessert while planning the rest of our evening. The café had a lively and bright atmosphere, with its signature pink decor creating a cheerful vibe. While the setting was delightful, the food didn’t quite match up. We tried their square sweet and savory croissants, but unfortunately, they didn’t hit the mark in terms of the perfect balance of flaky, buttery goodness we were hoping for. Despite the pleasant experience, L’ETO remained our top choice for a family-friendly spot with consistently delicious treats.
Gordon’s Wine Bar
Given my husband being a wine connoisseur, with several certificates under his belt, we couldn’t pass up the chance to visit Gordon’s Wine Bar, London’s oldest. Nestled in a cozy, candlelit cave setting, the atmosphere felt both intimate and timeless. As the only family with a young child, we were met with warm smiles and congratulations from fellow patrons who admired us for “living our life” with such a tiny baby, joking, “Good for you for looking alive at this stage!” It was a reassuring and humorous moment that reminded us to embrace these precious family adventures.
After a quick feeding, our little one happily drifted off to sleep, and we were able to fully enjoy the rest of the evening. The candlelit atmosphere and the soft white noise around him created a calming environment, making it easier for us to savour an impressive selection of wines, including the crisp Manzanilla la Goya, the smooth Pinot Noir Doudet-Naudin, and the bold Syrah Petros Cantine Petrosino, each pairing perfectly with a hearty spread of food. The Scotch egg, roast beef, smoked trout pâté, and a decadent cheese board featuring creamy Camembert, earthy truffle cheese, and rich Manchego offered a delightful variety of flavors, making for a memorable meal. My approach has always been to make sure the baby is well-fed and content before I can fully relax and enjoy myself. While it doesn’t always go smoothly, that night everything fell into place perfectly. We even ended up being the last to leave before the bar closed.
Although the bar didn’t have an elevator or ramp for the stroller, the staff were incredibly helpful and supportive. They kindly assisted us in carefully taking the stroller down to the lower level and, when it was time to leave, helped carry the stroller with our sleeping baby in it. This experience stood in stark contrast to our visit to Mr Fogg’s Tavern in Covent Garden, where we were unfortunately turned away due to their “no baby” policy in the evenings. It was a disappointing moment, but it made us even more grateful for the kindness and understanding we received at Gordon’s Wine Bar.
Colourful Strolls & Pub Culture
Notting Hill & Portobello Market
On our fourth day in London, we set off to explore the vibrant streets of Notting Hill, starting with the iconic Portobello Market. The market, which has a history spanning over 160 years, is probably the world’s best-known street market, famous for its antique and bric-a-brac stalls as well as its selection of fashion, food, crafts, books, and music. Although we’ve been to Portobello Market before on a bustling Sunday, this time, visiting on a weekday gave us a much quieter experience – especially since this time we were navigating it with a stroller, with fewer crowds but still plenty of charm. We went on to snap pictures by colourful doors and visited the Notting Hill bookstore from the famous movie.
Notting Hill Bakery
When we travel, we like to embrace spontaneity, letting our curiosity guide us rather than planning every detail to the smallest detail. Although we’ve visited Notting Hill before, this was the first time we noticed the charming Notting Hill Bakery and decided, on a whim, to make a stop there. It was a delightful discovery that perfectly fit our travel style. We tasted a mouthwatering selection of sweet and savoury dishes. We dug into a delicious gruyere, spinach, and mushroom quiche, a hearty chicken and mushroom pasty, and freshly made smoked salmon bagels. But the real star was one of the desserts— the Pecan Pear Tart that had just the right balance of sweetness and texture. As a bonus, the pastrami, gherkins, rocket, and mustard mayonnaise focaccia was a savoury highlight.
Although the bakery looked small from the outside, it had a spacious back area that easily accommodated us with the stroller. The space felt welcoming, with lots of families enjoying their meals, making it the perfect spot for a relaxed, enjoyable brunch.
Harrods
As evening approached, we made our way to Knightsbridge on Brompton Road, where a visit to the iconic Harrods was a must. The store’s façade, illuminated by 12,000 light bulbs, sparkled against the night sky. Established in 1849 by Charles Henry Harrod, Harrods began as a modest grocery store with only three employees, but today, it’s a world-renowned luxury destination. We couldn’t resist making our way through the grand Egyptian escalator, which has been a signature feature of the store since 1997. Designed by renowned sculptor William Mitchell, it transports visitors to an ancient world of luminous yellows, greens, and browns, with walls adorned by bas-reliefs and friezes depicting Egyptian warriors and pharaohs. A powerful inscription from Percy Bysshe Shelley’s famous poem “Ozymandias” reminds visitors of the transient nature of greatness—an unexpected literary touch in the midst of luxury.
As first-time parents, we took the opportunity to explore Harrods’ baby furniture section, comparing the quality and pricing with options available back home in North America. We were momentarily tempted by a box of what looked like real snow—a whimsical touch—but with the holidays behind us, and given that snow isn’t exactly a novelty back home in Canada, we quickly let the idea melt away. Our favourite stop was the Salon de Parfums on the less crowded 6th floor, where we tried different fragrances while keeping a safe distance from the baby, enjoying a quiet moment amidst the luxury. Harrods was an experience in itself, blending opulence with moments of reflection, all while providing a family-friendly environment for us to explore.
The Punch Bowl Pub
Having visited London several times before, we’ve often leaned into the city’s vibrant, eclectic dining scene mostly following my sister’s guidance who is a local—some of our favourite past experiences include the upscale flair of Sketch (where we once dined to the delicate twirls of a live ballerina), the grandeur of Bacchanalia, and the exuberant charm of Circolo Popolare. But on this trip, we felt drawn to something more rooted in tradition. So, we decided to wind down the day with a classic British experience at The Punch Bowl Pub.
Nestled in the heart of Mayfair, the pub welcomed us with a cozy atmosphere, complete with a glowing fireplace and warm wood interiors. We were seated in a snug private room—perfectly tucked away for a stroller and a little one, offering just the right mix of comfort and seclusion. The menu was a refined take on hearty pub fare. We sampled a range of dishes, from scallops baked in the shell and Chalk Stream trout with crème fraîche, caviar, and buttered rye, to an aubergine and chickpea pub curry served thali-style. The Butcombe beer-battered fish and chips were satisfyingly crisp, and the English rose veal schnitzel with a fried duck egg and caper sauce brought a deliciously intriguing note. That said, the star of the evening was undoubtedly the ox cheek with bone marrow—rich, tender, and full of flavour.
Our little one, having spent most of the day napping peacefully in the stroller, was well-rested and calm, quietly observing us as we savoured each dish. It was one of those rare and sweet parenting wins, where good timing met good food in the coziest of settings.
Skyline Strolls and Riverside Views
Sky Garden
The following morning began with a visit to one of our favourite London landmarks, Sky Garden, the city’s highest public garden and a spot we never skip on our London trips. We had secured our tickets in advance (a must if you’re planning a weekend visit), and were rewarded with a spectacularly sunny day and panoramic views of the city skyline. Despite being midweek, the space buzzed with quiet excitement, and the dazzling sunlight reflecting off London’s landmarks— the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, the Shard, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and the glassy, bullet-shaped Gherkin—made the scene especially picturesque. That said, we were running on fumes after a rough night; the baby had decided to throw a full-on party at 3 a.m., likely jet lag–induced, making it our third sleepless night in a row.
With sunglasses firmly in place (even indoors!), we sipped coffee, shared a pastry, and let the morning light work its magic. Thankfully, the baby napped peacefully throughout, catching up on missed sleep as we slowly circled the upper level, soaking in the 360-degree views and lush greenery.
Fortnum & Mason
Next, we made our way to Fortnum & Mason’s Bar & Restaurant at The Royal Exchange for lunch—a striking setting that effortlessly blends historic grandeur with modern flair. Voted the “Most Instagrammable Restaurant in London” by the London Evening Standard, this location sits within the majestic central courtyard of the Royal Exchange, surrounded by towering Roman-style pillars and elegant limestone walkways. The atmosphere felt both grand and relaxed, a quiet luxury in the heart of the City. As lovely as the space was, however, it wasn’t the most accessible for a stroller—we had to lift ours up a few steps to enter, but once inside, the open layout of the courtyard made it manageable.
We settled into a table beneath the glass-domed roof, soaking in the natural light and buzz of midday conversations. Our lunch was a delightful mix of comfort and sophistication: a rich bone marrow and caramelized onion risotto and a classic steak tartare crowned with a Burford Brown egg yolk. To sip, we sampled a Kir Royale, an Espresso Martini, and the highlight of the trio—a Lunar New Year cocktail special aptly named The Twisting Serpent. Crafted with Fortnum’s London Dry Gin, Rose Pouchong, French citrus and Triple Sec, a foamy finish, and topped with a dragon fruit crisp, it was vibrant, fragrant, and utterly memorable.
As if the meal wasn’t special enough, we ran into an old friend from New Zealand—someone my husband and I had met while we were judging the 3rd AIAC-ICC Pre-Moot for the Willem C. Vis International Commercial Arbitration Moot in Kuala Lumpur back in 2019. Now living in London, their unexpected appearance added a lovely layer of serendipity to an already exceptional afternoon. Just another reminder that travel is often less about planning and more about the magic you stumble upon.
Queen’s Walk
We spent a lovely part of the afternoon strolling along the Queen’s Walk, one of London’s most scenic riverside promenades. With the Thames glistening beside us, we passed by iconic landmarks—Tower Bridge, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the imposing MI5 and MI6 buildings, the towering London Eye, and of course, Big Ben.
Only recently did we discover that Big Ben isn’t actually the name of the tower at all, but rather the bell inside it, which weighs a staggering 13.7 tones. The tower itself, once known simply as The Clock Tower, was renamed Elizabeth Tower in 2012 to mark Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee. One theory suggests the name Big Ben came from Sir Benjamin Hall, the Chief Commissioner of Works at the time—affectionately known for both his stature and strong presence.
We paused at Hay’s on the River, a cozy pop-up tent offering seasonal indulgences. There, we treated ourselves to hot chocolate laced with Baileys, melty raclette on sourdough, and churros with dulce de leche cream—a moment of warmth on a crisp afternoon. However, our stay was cut short when parenting duties called. Our little one needed a diaper change, and so began a spontaneous urban treasure hunt for a café or restaurant with a baby changing station. Fortunately, we found a welcoming Costa Coffee nearby, which was well-equipped and full of other families, making it feel like an unexpected little haven for parents on the move.
Airport Nightmares
The following day, our journey to the airport was a challenge from the start, made more stressful by navigating the Tube with a stroller and heavy luggage. At Liverpool Street Station, we were frustrated to find no lift or escalators at our platform, forcing us to stay on the train, ride to the next station, and then walk back—lugging everything with us.
But nothing compared to the disappointing experience we had with Ryanair. It began with a scramble to the gate after a diaper blowout—rushing with a half-dressed baby in our arms because the gate was due to close just 20 minutes after it was announced. When we arrived, instead of assistance or understanding, we were met with cold, dismissive attitudes. Despite having already paid for our carry-on, we were told we needed to pay an additional £75, citing capacity concerns—on a flight that ended up being half empty. Even more baffling was the fact that I had previously flown with the same model of plane and the exact same carry-on with no issue.
As if that weren’t enough, we were directed to steep stairs with no lift or help offered, struggling to carry our bags and baby. To top it off, Ryanair was the only airline on our trip that refused to allow our compact travel stroller onboard, even though it fully complies with their stated size guidelines and fits in an overhead bin. The lack of accessibility, empathy, and basic support for traveling families left such a sour taste that we made ourselves a promise: we’ll never fly Ryanair again.
A Rainy Return & High Tea at The Landmark London
Canary Wharf
After traveling through Albania, Montenegro, and Greece, we returned to London for a final two-day stop before heading home to Toronto. On a classic rainy London afternoon, we explored Canary Wharf—a modern maze of glass towers and underground walkways which reminded us of Toronto’s PATH. We warmed up with matcha lattes and white chocolate from Blank Street Coffee, then wandered through the lush Crossrail Place Roof Garden. Tucked away above the busy business district, this hidden oasis has earned several international accolades, including “Best Urban Regeneration Project” at the MIPIM Awards in France as well as recognition for innovative garden design in Berlin.
High Tea at The Landmark London
Every time we’re in London, we make it a point to try high tea in a new and memorable setting—it’s become a cherished tradition. In the past, we’ve enjoyed the experience at the charming Dalloway Terrace and the elegant Great Court Restaurant at the British Museum, each offering its own unique atmosphere. This time, The Landmark London stole the show.
Nestled under the soaring Victorian atrium, adorned with graceful palm trees, the setting felt almost like a serene tropical escape in the heart of the city. The gentle notes of live piano music added a touch of timeless elegance as daylight streamed through the glass ceiling. We indulged in champagne, a variety of fragrant teas, delicate finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones with Cornish clotted cream, and an exquisite array of pastries crafted by the hotel’s award-winning pastry chef. While we savoured each bite, our little one sat wide-eyed, calmly taking in the soft music and graceful ambiance—an unexpectedly peaceful moment that made the experience feel all the more magical. The venue was also very baby-friendly, with accessible amenities that made it easy to navigate with a stroller, allowing us to fully enjoy the afternoon without any hassle.
The Wallace Collection
Having visited most of the museums in London in the past, this time we made our way to the Wallace Collection — one of London’s lesser-known gems and my sister’s personal favourite for a peaceful afternoon. Tucked away in a historic townhouse in Marylebone, the museum houses an extraordinary range of fine and decorative arts, including masterpieces by Fragonard, Velázquez, and Titian, as well as an impressive armoury that fascinates visitors of all ages. The Wallace Collection is not only stunning and free to enter, but also surprisingly family-friendly — an ideal stop when you’re looking to escape the city’s crowds without sacrificing beauty or inspiration.
A Pricey Splash: Underwhelmed at the London Aquarium
Despite high hopes, our visit to the SEA LIFE London Aquarium left much to be desired. With tickets priced at £40 each — nearly double the cost of Ripley’s Aquarium in Toronto — we expected a comparable, if not more expansive, experience. Instead, the exhibits were limited, and the overall ambiance lacked the immersive magic we’ve come to associate with world-class aquariums. In other words, it felt like a miniature version of what we had seen at Ripley’s. The jellyfish display, for example, was confined to a small aquatic tank, while at Ripley’s, the jellyfish exhibit spans entire walls, creating a much more immersive experience. Even the glass ceiling in London was a let-down and in stark contrast to Ripley’s wider, longer, and better-illuminated design, which includes a moving ramp and a larger variety of sea creatures to carefully observe. While there were some charming moments, the overall experience didn’t justify the price. All in all, it was a decent spot for a brief visit, but definitely not one we’d rush to revisit.
Final Thoughts: Would We Visit London with a Baby Again?
London has much to offer but it’s not the most baby-friendly city. The lack of elevators in several Tube stations and scarcity of changing tables make it tricky for families with infants. That said, if you’re prepared to navigate the challenges, you can still enjoy an incredible mix of history, fine dining, museums, and shopping.
Tips for Parents Traveling to London
❖ Don’t over-plan your days. Instead, follow your curiosity and leave space for spontaneous discoveries (like the Notting Hill Bakery or surprise meetups!).
❖ Secure tickets for popular attractions in advance, especially places like Sky Garden, which can book up quickly, even mid-week. The Aquarium also has discounted rates if you book in advance.
❖ Take advantage of family-friendly spots like cafés, restaurants with space for the stroller or private-like rooms, or venues such as The Landmark Hotel, which are both elegant and accessible.
❖ Be flexible with your schedule and expect the unexpected—blowouts, jet lag, or diaper emergencies can happen anytime.
❖ Bring a lightweight, foldable stroller, but expect to carry it up stairs in some Tube stations.
❖ If you’re not driving, use buses instead of the Tube for easier access.
❖ Bring a baby carrier for spots where strollers aren’t practical, like navigating older buildings or busy markets.
❖ Make your own memories—not every “Instagrammable” place lives up to the hype.
❖ Avoid Ryanair if traveling with a baby—seriously!
Would we visit London again? Yes—but perhaps when our little one is old enough to enjoy it too!